Desserts

Brown Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies

Thick cookies with crisp edges and a soft centre, made with browned butter and chopped dark chocolate.

Thick chocolate chip cookies cooling on a wire rack
Prep20 min
Cook12 min
Total32 min
Serves18
DifficultyEasy
Calories284 kcal

Browning the butter is ten minutes of work for a flavour you cannot get any other way: toffee and toasted nuts, sitting under the chocolate. The other change worth making is chopping a bar instead of using chips, so you get shards and puddles rather than uniform dots. Chilling the dough is not optional if you want thick cookies.

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How to make Brown Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies

Ingredients

18

Quantities scale automatically. Cooking times stay the same.

Dough

Chocolate and finishing

Equipment

  • Light-coloured saucepan
  • Electric whisk or stand mixer
  • Two baking sheets
  • Ice cream scoop, optional

Method

  1. 1

    Brown the butter

    Melt the butter in a light-coloured pan over medium heat, then keep cooking it, swirling often, for 5 to 7 minutes. It will foam, quieten, and then the milk solids at the bottom will turn golden brown and smell nutty. Pour it at once into a bowl, brown bits and all.

  2. 2

    Cool it down

    Leave the butter 15 minutes, until it is warm rather than hot. Hot butter cooks the egg and the cookies spread flat.

  3. 3

    Beat in the sugars

    Whisk both sugars into the butter for a full minute, until the mixture looks like wet sand and is no longer grainy at the edges.

  4. 4

    Add the eggs and vanilla

    Beat in the egg, the extra yolk and the vanilla for 1 to 2 minutes, until the mixture turns slightly paler and thickens enough to ribbon off the whisk.

  5. 5

    Fold in the dry ingredients

    Add the flour, bicarbonate of soda and salt and fold with a spatula until a few floury streaks remain, then add the chopped chocolate and fold just until it is distributed. Stop there; worked dough bakes tough.

  6. 6

    Chill the dough

    Scoop into 18 balls of about 60 g, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight. This firms the fat so the cookies rise before they spread, and it lets the flour hydrate, which deepens the flavour.

  7. 7

    Bake

    Heat the oven to 190C / 375F. Bake 6 cookies per sheet, well spaced, for 10 to 12 minutes, until the edges are set and golden and the centres still look underdone and puffy.

  8. 8

    Settle and salt

    Sprinkle with flaky salt as they come out and leave them on the hot sheet for 5 minutes to finish setting, then move them to a rack. They collapse slightly into the right texture as they cool.

Cook’s tips

  • Weigh the dough balls if you can. Even cookies bake evenly, and 60 g is the size that gives a crisp edge with a soft middle.
  • Pull them while the centres look wet. A cookie that looks done in the oven is a hard cookie on the plate.
  • If they spread too much, the butter was too warm or the dough was not chilled long enough. Put the next tray back in the fridge for 20 minutes.

Variations

  • Add 100 g of toasted chopped walnuts or pecans with the chocolate.
  • Swap a third of the dark chocolate for milk or white chocolate for a sweeter cookie.
  • Press a few extra chocolate pieces onto the tops before baking for bakery-style puddles on the surface.

Storage and make-ahead

Keep in an airtight tin for 4 days, with a slice of bread in the tin to hold the softness. Raw dough balls freeze for 3 months and bake straight from frozen with 2 extra minutes, which is the reason to make the full batch.

Nutrition per serving

Calories284 kcal
Protein3 g
Carbohydrates34 g
Fat16 g
Fibre2 g
Sugar22 g
Sodium180 mg

Nutrition is estimated from ingredient averages and will vary with brands and portioning.

Brown Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies: your questions answered

Can I bake the dough straight away?

You can, but the cookies will be thinner and the flavour flatter. If you are in a hurry, 30 minutes in the freezer gets you most of the benefit of a long chill.

How do I know when the butter is browned enough?

Go by smell and by the colour of the solids at the bottom of the pan: nutty and amber is right, acrid and very dark has gone too far. Use a pale pan so you can actually see it.

Why one whole egg and an extra yolk?

The extra yolk adds fat and emulsifiers without more water, which gives a chewier centre. Two whole eggs make a cakier cookie.

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